A city of two million with a history that goes back many thousands of years before it became an important trading post on the Silk Road, with incredible museums and unique tasty food, Gaziantep should be swamped by tourists. The reality is that is almost completely devoid of them. Why?

It lies close to the Turkish border with Syria, Aleppo is its closest neighbour, and articles from the normally more responsible Guardian newspaper titled Gaziantep: home to Isis killers, sex traders… and a quest to rebuild Syria do not help.

It has had its problems, an ISIS bombing on a wedding in 2016 for one, but in 2019 is calm, with increased security, and a place well worth visiting. Be aware of your countries security warnings, as this can affect the validity of your travel insurance.

I spent a week in and around Gaziantep, and I encountered an incredibly friendly welcome and enjoyed one of my best trips out of all my many visits to Turkey. The only word of warning would be to take extra care at night time. The smiling bazaar shopkeepers are replaced by an influx of Syrian beggars, although even this was no worse than a typical day in central London.

Here are our Top 10 things to see and do in Gaziantep:

5. Take an energetic walk up to the Kale
Gaziantep's old city skyline is dominated by the Kale, or castle. Built in Roman times, there has been a castle here for over two thousand years. Only the walls now survive, and the interior is used as an exhibition space (currently under renovation).

The gardens are a great place for people watching, or just relaxing as you nibble on a slice of takeaway Baklava while admiring the view of the old city.


6. Get lost in the Zincirli Bedesten Market



Shops full of giant hookahs vie with the aroma of spices to grab your attention. As you delve deeper into the warren of laneways you will come across traditional knife sharpeners.

Old ladies will bring their old and rusty essential kitchen blades to be transformed almost into new again in a shower of sparks.


7. Eat Pistachio nuts with almost everything



Gaziantep is not just famous for its sweets, it also has some other great epicurean delights. The vital ingredient to Baklava, pistachio nuts, is grown all around the city, and there are a great many different types to taste. You haven't eaten a real pistachio nut until you have had fresh Antep Fiskars as they are known locally.

And the tasty nut is used throughout the cuisine of Gaziantep and you can find them in coffee, ice cream, bread and kebabs. Head over to Sirvan Baklava (yes, it does sell Baklava also, but its kebabs are even better) and try the Simit Kebab. Minced lamb, grain and pistachio's are combined into an unforgettable wood grilled kebab.


8. Hear the call to prayer from the Boyaci Mosque



The Boyaci Camii Mosque is one of many in Gaziantep, and you will not fail to hear the Adhan (Call to prayer) while you are here, usually at sunrise when the city is at its quietest. This mosque is both the oldest and one of the more interesting and well worth a visit (with appropriate clothing).

Building began in 1211, and it was finally completed in 1357. The mosque has one of the oldest wooden minbars (pulpit) in the world, beautifully carved with Koranic verses, stars, roses and other detailed patterns.


9. Make a sombre visit to the National Struggle Museum




Gaziantep used to be named Antep, and most locals still refer to it by that name. The Gazi, loosely translated as 'War Hero' was added in 1920 as a reward for the cities inhabitants heroic efforts in fighting the invading French and British forces during the Turkish War of Independence.

The museum has weapons, photographs, and animatronic exhibits of the war above and below ground in a series of caves, also a very cool place to hang out if you are there in the height of summer.



10. Give your feet the Hollywood star treatment

No, not another massage. Gaziantep is famous for its shoes, the shoemakers here provided all the footwear for the Brad Pitt film 'Troy' as well as the Oliver Stone movie 'Alexander'.

The centuries-old tradition of producing the handmade 'Yemeni'  style lives on throughout the city, and they make for extremely comfortable shoes, ideal for exploring the old city lanes and pack easily into your travel bag.